Men’s shoes are not a detail; they are a structural element of dress. If you understand their construction and purpose, you will make fewer mistakes and buy more intelligently. It belongs to the basic knowledge of a cultivated man to be familiar with these distinctions and to apply them correctly.
Oxford
The Oxford is the formal reference point. Its defining feature is closed lacing, where the eyelet tabs are stitched beneath the vamp, which creates a narrow opening and a clean line. This construction makes the shoe appropriate for business suits and formal occasions. It looks elegant. Too elegant to be combined with jeans. I’d generally advice you to only wear Oxfords for evening outings.
There is the plain-toe Oxford - the most formal version. And the cap-toe, which adds versatility - it might work for the office though there are many better options.
Patent leather Oxfords belong exclusively to evening dress with a tuxedo, as the high-gloss finish is designed for artificial light rather than daylight settings. If you attend a black-tie (by the way: Black Tie is not a motto, it’s a strict dresscode) Well… If you attend a black-tie event, this is the correct choice.
Derby
The Derby differs in one essential aspect: open lacing. The eyelet tabs sit on top of the vamp, which allows more room and slightly reduces formality. This makes the Derby suitable for business environments. If comfort is more important to you than maximum formality, the Derby is often the wiser decision.
Brogues are not a separate shoe type but a decorative treatment defined by perforations. The more extensive the broguing, the less formal the shoe becomes, which is why full brogues pair well with textured fabrics such as tweed. All Budapesters are Brogues, but not all Brogues are Budapesters.
Monk Straps
Monk strap shoes replace laces with one or two buckles. A single monk remains restrained enough for business use, while a double monk introduces a more assertive note. The key is proportion: a slim buckle and balanced toe shape preserve elegance. Excessively bulky versions undermine the concept.
Loafers
Loafers remove fastening entirely and therefore reduce formality further. Penny loafers work with tailored trousers in summer, while tassel loafers provide a slightly more decorative alternative for business casual settings.
Slippers
Velvet slippers are reserved for evening wear and private occasions; they are not a substitute for formal lace-ups at conservative events.
Chelsea Boots
Chelsea boots offer a streamlined ankle-high option with elastic side panels. In black leather they integrate well with dark tailoring, while brown versions suit smart casual combinations.
Chukka Boots
